I lived just around the corner from the Victoria Street and Darebin Road intersection in the mid-90s, and back then the shopping strip had a milk bar, laundromat and a few other nondescript shops. What I would have given for a cafe to hve opened up. Now, a decade and a half later one has.
Chair 14 (167 Darebin Road, Thornbury, ph 03 9484 0767) is a Polish and Austrian inspired cafe occupying a huge space on this this otherwise barren strip of shops. We visited for breakfast, although Polish and Austrian cuisine probably lends itself better to a lunch visit – what, with the menu featuring spaetzle, pierogi and other heavier dishes.
I chose the Austrian-inspired poached eggs with speck, caramelised onion and chat potatoes. It didn’t come with toast, although with the potatoes providing the carbohydrates it was filling enough. The eggs were slightly under-poached (better than over-poached) and the diced speck and onion didn’t provide the richness I was expecting. Nonetheless, it was nice to see somewhere trying something a little different.
My girlfriend had a fried egg and bacon roll, which was a good example of a fried egg and bacon roll – nothing more, nothing less.
Others have commented on the quality of the coffee. It wasn’t bad, but nor was it great, and I was a little disappointed not to have it served on a tray with a glass of water, as is the custom in Europe. Instead the staff brought a bottle and a couple of glasses, which is probably more practical.
Austrian and Polish ex-pats, or just fans of the cuisine, will be pleased to know that Chair 14 also sells a range of grocery items from those countries, including dumpling mixes, biscuits and cordials. In addition, you can choose from a range of Austrian and Polish beers, including some from one of my favourites breweries, Edelweiss.
